Stretching out lazily from the Dominican Republic’s northeast corner, the Samaná Peninsula is a sun-lover’s paradise—all idyllic Caribbean beaches, warm turquoise waters, and fresh seafood—that’s populated by fishermen, Euro expats, and endless coconut groves. Plus humpback whales, who come to mate and calve every January, and tourists, of course, inevitably drawn to the laid-back lounge-around nature of the peninsula’s pretty villages.

But despite the international streak—and the restaurants that go along with it—in towns such as Las Terrenas, we come here to eat fish and more fish, prepared in the local way. Such is the subject of this EYW snapshot.