Every December Turkey goes crazy for these little silvery fish: hamsi, the Black Sea anchovy. Sinop is one of the coast’s ground zeros for hamsi come winter. We were there in Oct., unfortunately, and the local stuff hadn’t yet come in (due to a warm autumn), but we found hamsi at this restaurant, likely sourced from the Georgian end of the B.S. Dipped in cornmeal and pan-fried, these hamsi were delicious nonetheless, rich and oily, with an irresistible sea flavor.