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Nokul

Nokul pastry from Sinop, Turkey

What: These flaky spiral pastries come sweet or savory: For the former, the nokul’s soft inner layers are rolled with üzümlü and cevizli, or grapes (actually raisins) and walnuts, while the outside is brushed with butter and a sugary syrup, imparting an exterior stickiness. The butter, of course, edges the “sweet” nokul a bit toward the savory end of the spectrum, but the more savory version, nokul kıymalı, is made with minced meat (lamb or beef) inside, plus the requisite butter. Both are usually topped with sesame seeds. Also important to note: These things are monstrous in size, plenty big for two or three people to share. And they’re to-die-for delicious.

Where: Near the town circle, Tatlıcılar Pastanesi (0-368-261-7924; Yeni Mah. Ahmet Örs Cad. No.1) is a friendly bakery and café selling nokul, mantı, and more. Great for eating in or taking out.

When: Daily, 8am-10pm

Order: Pictured is the sweet nokul (4 TL), a monster of a pastry that we enjoyed immensely. Its outer layer was nicely browned and flecked with seeds, while the innards, which peeled apart like a cinnamon bun, revealed golden raisins, chopped walnuts, and soft pastry dough.

Alternatively: Try any bakery in town, such as Demirkollar Unlu Mamüller (0-368-261-1971; Sakarya Cad. No. 47, map), where we fell for the savory, minced-beef-filled nokul (katlama too).


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