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I wrote this piece, about spontaneously spending el Día de los Muertos with a family in Oaxaca, several years ago; it’s based on an experience...
What: Found around the country, sopes are savory, corn-y, delicious antojitas—a.k.a. snacks—made of thick, fried (but not crunchy) masa shaped into a thick tortilla of sorts, with prominent pinched edges. The masa acts as a little dish, so that various ingredients can be piled into it. Common toppings include refried beans, lettuce, tomato, cheese, cream, salsa, and meats or seafood. Like the tostada, these can be elegant appetizers or street treats.
When: Sun-Thurs, 1pm-6:30; Fri-Sat, 1pm-8:30pm
Order: The excellent sope de pescado adobado (85p) is topped with meaty marinated (likely with vinegar, chiles, spices, and annatto) kingfish, shredded lettuce, black beans, crumbly cotija cheese, and cream. Be sure to make good use of the onion-and-chile and guacamole sides provided on the table. We also loved the tostada de atún (150p) here.
Alternatively: Look for sopes in and around daily markets, such as Mercado de Medellín in Roma Sur (map).
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