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What: What’s more typical New York than a hot dog scarfed down on a bustling street corner? Of course we have Germany and Austria to thank for “frankfurter” sausages, but it was 1870s Coney Island, when a German immigrant started selling hot dogs, where it all began for New York. That immigrant’s business invited competition a few decades later, spawning Nathan’s Famous in 1916—and it turned out New Yorkers like their wieners! New York hot dogs are kosher-style (all-beef), natural-casing dogs, many of them made by Sabrett, whose parent company, Marathon Enterprises, is based just across the river in Englewood, NJ.

Where: Since 1973, the Manhattan mini-chain Gray’s Papaya (212-260-3532; multiple locations including 402 Sixth Ave. at 8th St.) has focused on two things: griddled all-beef, natural-casing Sabrett hot dogs and tropical fruit drinks. In more recent decades it’s become beloved as well for its “recession special” deal: two hot dogs and a fruit drink for an ever-changing price. (The special began in the ’90s at $1.95; it’s currently $4.95—a far cry from the nickel dogs that Nathan’s started out selling a century ago.)

When: Gray’s is open 24 hours a day.

Order: The hot dogs ($1.75 each) are pretty small here, so the recession special is never a bad idea (if you’re thirsty for a 14 oz. drink, anyway). Definitely try the namesake papaya juice—frothy, light, and not too sweet, it somehow makes sense with the snappy dog (we like ours with mustard, sauerkraut, and saucy onions, which add a nice tangy sweetness).

Alternatively: The ubiquitous street “dirty water dog” will always work in a pinch—and we still recommend going the mustard, sauerkraut, and onion-sauce route—but if you have the luxury of time, get down to Coney Island for the Nathan’s Famous original (1310 Surf Ave., map), preferably in the summer when you can soak up the salty atmosphere. Also venerable is the crisp frankfurter at Katz’s Delicatessen (205 E. Houston St. at Ludlow St., map) on the Lower East Side. Then there’s the new school of NYC hot dog obsessives, best exemplified by the creative menu at the East Village’s Crif Dogs (113 St. Marks Pl., betw. First Ave. & Ave. A, map), the must-try of which is the addictive Spicy Red Neck (a deep-fried dog, bacon-wrapped topped with chili, coleslaw, and jalapeños)—one of our favorite guilty late-night pleasures. Also worth mentioning for their admirable commitment to local farms, small producers, and sustainability is Bark Hot Dogs (474 Bergen St., map) in Prospect Heights, Brooklyn—though we think requesting their pricier “private label” lard-basted pork-and-beef dogs (from Hartmann’s of Rochester, NY) “well done” might give them more of the crispy snap we found lacking.

Good to know: For a twist combining two beloved NYC foods, try the pretzel dog ($4) at The Rusty Knot (425 West St. nr. W. 11th St., map)—like a giant pig-in-a-blanket, it’s a housemade pretzel wrapped around a Sabrett’s hot dog.