If you've seen the movie Coco, you might guess that El Día de los Muertos is a wonderful, life-affirming time to visit Mexico, expecially if you can find a local family to take you under their wing.
I wrote this piece, about spontaneously spending the Day of the Dead with a local named Rafael and his family in Oaxaca, several years ago. It is based on an experience from 2004, when we spent six weeks backpacking around Mexico. Six years later, we returned to Oaxaca to study its cuisine and found Rafael, having saved his business card (see at bottom). Lots of hugs and mezcal were shared all around.
From my seat on a wooden bench outside the corner store, I took in the busy...Read More