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On the Hunt for Oaxaca’s Best Tlayudas

April 3, 2019

A tlayuda from Doña Favia in Oaxaca, Mexico. All photos courtesy of Catherine Tansey. Few foods are more Oaxaqueño than the crisp, chewy tlayuda. Affectionately called “Mexican pizza,” tlayudas are large crispy tortillas, warmed on a comal and brushed with smoky asiento (pork lard). Toppings vary but usually include a smear of velvety black beans, shredded lettuce, and some type of salty meat like tasajo or cecina; the…

Food Travel

Monterrey’s Weekend Ritual: Cabrito

June 28, 2017

             Monterrey's Weekend Ritual: Cabrito

Cabrito, or roasted goat, being sliced for tacos in Monterrey, Mexico
All photos by Lydia Carey

It’s mid-morning in Monterrey, Mexico, when Humberto Villareal—“Beto”—picks me up, but it’s already blazing hot. The air-conditioning running, his car is laced with the smell of cigarettes, and his gravelly northern accent takes me a minute to get accustomed to. Beto…

Food Travel

Skeletons, Tamales & Familia: Day of the Dead in Oaxaca

November 1, 2014

                Skeletons, Tamales & Familia:
                  Day of the Dead in Oaxaca

I wrote this piece, about spontaneously spending el Día de los Muertos with a family in Oaxaca, several years ago; it’s based on an experience in 2004, when we spent six weeks backpacking around Mexico. Six years later, we returned to Oaxaca to study its cuisine and found Rafael, having saved his…

Food Travel

East Coast Mexico’s Dutch Influence

April 9, 2014

        East Coast Mexico's Dutch Influence

Marquesita with edam cheese and nutella in Mexico
A marquesita filled with Nutella and Edam cheese

Yucatecan food—even that found along the so-called Riviera Maya, the coastal corridor between Cancún and Tulum—is markedly different from “Mexican food” as most of us know it, as we learned while traveling the region last week. One reason is, of…