Roadside dhabas, or vegetarian truckstop eateries that cater mainly to long-haul lorry drivers, are one of the purest pleasures of travel in India. In Rajasthan I enjoyed this lunch of daal, palak paneer, kadi (a local specialty of yogurt curry thickened with lentil flour), onion-tomato salad, and all the fresh, hot chapati I could manage.