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When I was a child, my family used to have a tradition of baking apple pies together every fall. We would gather the ripest apples from our backyard and spend hours peeling, slicing, and mixing the ingredients... Read more
What: This ever-popular “Turkish wrap” takes grilled lavaş (lavash; a thin tortilla-like flatbread) and rolls it around various meat and vegetable fillings, from döner to tavuk şiş (chicken kebab), usually with a little salad—parsley, tomato, onion—thrown in. Portable and cheap, it makes a deliciously satisfying on-the-go snack when you need a quick fix…particularly at 2am.
Where: One of many dürüm and döner shops near bustling Taksim Square, Çilgin Dürüm (212-293-7216; Sıraselviler Cad. No. 2, map) hit the spot for us.
When: Daily, open 24 hours
Order: We went with a basic dürüm döner with lamb meat (9 TL), which was joined by lettuce, tomato, and a few French fries in its lavaş. The meat was tasty and spicy; the wrap nicely charred with just the right amount of chew (unlike a burrito, which some compare this to, dürüm is tightly rolled and the lavaş just thick enough to contain the meat’s juices, so it’s not messy).The sandwich paired perfectly with a refreshing, tangy ayran. Easy to see why this is a popular fast food, at any hour of the day.
Alternatively: Also in Beyoğlu, and recommended by everyone from Anthony Bourdain to Istanbul Eats, is Dürümzade (212-249-0147; Kalyoncu Küllük Cad.No. 26/A, map), open 24 hours. We’ve also heard good things about Melekler Dürüm Evi (212-243-0585;Küçük Parmak Kapı İpek Sokak No.1, map) nearby.
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