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Kadhi pakoda

A plate of kadhi pakoda from Lal Bagh in Udaipur, India.

What: A staple vegetarian dish in Rajasthani cuisine, and one of several combining gram-flour, or chickpea-flour (besan), dumplings in a curd and besan curry, kadhi pakoda consists of little fritters (also called pakora) with a creamy, tangy sauce.

Where: We loved Lal Bagh (65 Sardarpura/Highway 27, nr Daulat Chambers) not only for its food—lots of North Indian and typical Rajastani dishes—but also for its romantic garden setting, all ornate fountains, silk canopies, and well-dressed clientele. The restaurant, located about 15 minutes (via rickshaw) from the Old City, strives to use organic ingredients when possible.

When: Daily, noon-11:30pm, though call (294-2414816) to confirm—sometimes the restaurant closes earlier. There’s live music most nights.

Order: The kadhi pakoda (130 rupees) here is quite good: soft, wheaty dumplings swimming in a creamy, spicy, yogurty curry studded with mustard seeds and fresh coriander (cilantro). The dish was a great complement to the laal maans, or spicy mutton curry, we tried here too—totally different flavors, colors, everything. Try some missi roti, a typical Rajasthani bread, on the side, or pair this with some plain roti or white rice.

Alternatively: This dish is also among the Mewari classics offered at popular upscale restaurant Ambrai (outside Chandpole, map) at Amet Haveli, a renovated heritage hotel with spectacular views across Lake Pichola to City Palace and Lake Palace.


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