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Bangers and mash

What: Bangers and mash—a.k.a. sausages and mashed potatoes—has long been a favorite of the British working class, a staple of both the country’s pubs and overall cuisine. And why wouldn’t it be? It’s hearty and cheap, tastes good, and is, well, meat and potatoes, the world’s happiest protein-carbohydrate marriage. The term bangers is said to come from the fact that sausages back in the day tended to explode when cooked over high heat, while mash simply reflects that charming British habit of shortening words (the third, and equally important, component is onion gravy). Sausages nowadays might be pork, beef, or lamb, or fancified with any number of gourmet extras, but one of the most traditional of meat sticks used is Cumberland sausage, a chunky pork sausage from northwest England with Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status. It’s the ultimate comfort food, British style.

Where: Dinerlike S&M Cafe (48 Brushfield St.) in Spitalfields has made sausage and mash its calling card, hence the cafe’s name. (Get your mind out of the gutter!) It sources locally and seasonally when possible, and takes pride in its bangers, which come from Simply Real Sausages, a respected London-based producer that uses British-farmed, humanely raised meats.

UPDATE: As of early 2012, S&M Cafe has sadly closed. Until we can replace our featured entry here, please check out the alternative options we have listed below.

Alternatively: You’ll see this dish at many a regular old pub, but a lot of those regular old pubs are better for just drinking in, if you get our drift. It’s worthwhile to seek out quality. For a similar S&M Cafe-like customizable experience, try Mother Mash (multiple locations including 26 Ganton St., map) in Soho, where lots of (free-range) sausage, mash, and gravy varieties await; or hit up a gastropub like The Wells (30 Well Walk, map) in Hampstead, where the traditional Cumberland sausage-mash-onion gravy trinity is usually offered. British-food mini-chain Canteen (multiple locations include Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd., map) always has it too.


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