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Jutting out into the Black Sea on Turkey’s north coast, pretty Sinop is a water-lover’s retreat with its expansive sea views and picturesque harbor, bobbing with boats. It’s a gem along this stretch of coast, its idyllic setting boasting a small-town yet cosmopolitan feel and, beyond that, a whole lot of living history: Walk the crumbling city walls, dating to around 72 BC, for some of the best views in town; poke around the active harbor for a taste of what the city’s trading-port past might’ve been like, millennia ago. But there’s another reason to make the trip up here: the food. Fishmongers abound, and their freshly caught wares spill out onto the streets, beef up restaurant menus, and, if you’re around during the winter hamsi (Black Sea anchovy) season, attract a cultlike following from here to Istanbul. In this quickie snapshot, we focus not only on the local fish but also on more landlubber-friendly culinary traditions, which—pleasingly enough—are characterized by a fondness for regional walnuts and a certain butter-rich decadence. Here’s how to dig in.
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