Sierra Leone

• Sierra Leone

  It’s not hard to love Sierra Leone. Yes, that Sierra Leone, the little country in West Africa best known for an ugly history of slavery, rebel child soldiers fighting a decade-long civil war (1991-2002), the violent thriller Blood Diamond, and, more recently, its Ebola breakout from 2014-2016. Well over a decade past its dreadful war, the country, though still showing its scars and beset by poverty and poor infrastructure, boasted a freely elected government and relatively low crime rates. At the time of our visit (pre-Ebola), it was quite safe to visit. In fact, in parts of the otherwise chaotic, crowded, pulsing capital, Freetown, it was downright tranquil. You can see why locals call their home “Swit Salone,” or sweet Sierra Leone.
  
  Move down toward the beaches, and you will think you’ve found paradise. Miles of sublime coastline, backed by jungle-covered hills and confoundingly devoid of tourists, are yours to enjoy. Fishing villages abound, to which you can show up, dine on local lobster, spend the night, and make new friends—Sierra Leoneans, warm by nature, speak English, making their culture all the more accessible to a wide range of visitors. Go deeper into the country to find charmingly dusty, laid-back towns; newly protected national parks; a gorgeous tropical inland island populated by primates, with a few cozy tents for guests.

  It’s true that most foreigners come to Sierra Leone to work or volunteer. Some come to travel: to explore the superb scenery, meet the people, and experience the inherent adventure in just being here. Nobody comes for the food. But the local “chop,” as it’s known in Krio, is nothing to sniff at—in fact, it’s quite good as a whole, humble but spicy and hearty. Rice, groundnuts (peanuts), leafy greens, cassava, black-eyed beans, palm oil, and chile peppers figure prominently. Encouragingly, the best kitchens, all of them recommended on these pages, are already making good culinary decisions, employing the freshest ingredients from local markets and fishermen, choosing whole-grain “country” rice over cheaper imported white rice, cutting back a little on the loads of palm oil traditionally used (as well as Maggi stock cubes, a more recent addition to the cuisine). Like everywhere, Sierra Leoneans take pride in their food, and if you ask about finding good chop, you’ll be instantly rewarded with huge grins. “You like African food?” comes the incredulous reply. Why, yes—yes we do.

  Note: For logistical information on getting to Sierra Leone, including easy online visa application, check out the helpful Visit Sierra Leone website.
  
  *2019 update: Please check current travel advisories regarding Sierra Leone's safety and health issues.

  It’s not hard to love Sierra Leone. Yes, that Sierra Leone, the little country in West Africa best known for an ugly history of slavery, rebel child soldiers fighting a decade-long civil war (1991-2002), the violent thriller Blood Diamond, and, more recently, its Ebola breakout from 2014-2016. Well over a decade past its dreadful war, the country, though still showing its scars and beset by poverty and poor…   Read more

   

  Find local foods in Sierra Leone.

  Leaf stews, plasas

  Groundnut soup

  Pumpkin “punky” stew

  Pepper soup

  Fry stew

• User Content

Below is user-submitted content for this region. Have something to contribute? Upload your regional-food photo or food memory.

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  Caurel steaks

  Banana Island
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  Agidi

  Freetown
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  Local spiny lobster

  John Obey beach
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  Sierra Leone-style banana pancakes

  Tiwai Island
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• • Self-caught fish & oysters on a beautiful beach resort in Sierra Leone

    spearos
    Banana Island, Sierra Leone
    

    On a trip to Banana Island in Sierra Leone, we had the chance to sample our own catch of seafood. We set out on a small boat to the oyster reef. We had to be there at low tide, as the oysters …    Read more

• Blog Posts

• Tiwai Island, Sierra Leone: 11 Primate Species, Five Tents, One Cook

  Our immediate impressions of Tiwai Island, a wildlife sanctuary/research facility and community-led conservation initiative in Sierra Leone’s southeast, weren’t the best: Here we found ourselves on a hot, buggy tropical island in…   Read more

• Freetown Through a Car Window

  We first arrived to Freetown via water taxi from the airport, a bumpy adventure in the pitch-black night. Our brief drive through the western part of town revealed a city in full Friday-night revelry: unruly streets, overflowing clubs, and…   Read more

• African Cooking: What's With the Maggi Cubes?

  Maggi stock cubes—high in sodium, MSG, and hydrogenated fats—are ubiquitous in West African cooking. Find out what the dangers are, then meet ogeri and sounbareh, the nutritious traditional seasonings they’re…   Read more

• Local Oysters, Sierra Leone Style

  After a full day village-hopping along the Freetown Peninsula’s beautiful coastline, we hit our last stop, Bureh beach. We didn’t plan on saving the best for last; it just happened. On this idyllic stretch of palm tree-studded…   Read more

• Sierra Leone: A Traveler’s Perspective

  Ever consider traveling to Sierra Leone? Maybe you should. View of lagoon from bungalow, Tribewanted, John Obey beach Somewhere between waking up to peaceful lagoon views; swimming in a warm, empty sea before breakfast; and feasting on spicy…   Read more