When I traveled within the Heilongjiang province of China (if the country looks like a chicken, think the chicken head), I was introduced to a yeast-flavored, non-alcoholic soft drink called 格瓦斯, or gewasi. Proudly made in Harbin, the capital of Heilongjiang, the popular Qiulin brand boasts probiotic qualities that help digestion. It is also marketed as low-sugar with a healthy dose of Vitamin B. I never thought a liquid could taste so much like rye bread, but it did somehow, leaving a strangely fresh taste in my mouth. I also tried the “Extra Thick” version, consisting of a higher yeast content and greater carbonation, which wasn’t my favorite of the two.

I’ve never been able to find gewasi in the U.S., and one of my biggest reasons for wanting to return to China is to have just another sip. I was in Harbin as a student in the pleasantly cool May and June, and recall walking down a cobblestoned pedestrian street, gewasi in hand; I reflected on the not only unique taste, but the cultural history of the drink. Surrounding me was an eclectic mix of Russian and Chinese architecture, seeing as we were so close to the border, and with cultural diffusion evident in all other aspects of the city, it’s no surprise Russian cuisine has had influence on China.

Thought to be originated by Slavic people back in the 10th century, kvass (Russian for gewasi) has evolved and maintained popularity through hundreds of years. When the phenomenon of Coca Cola took over the world, it was called the “patriotic alternative” by Russia. Besides China and Russia, kvass is also well-loved in Sweden, Finland, Estonia, Latvia, and Poland. Gewasi, or kvass, is a drink unknown to most in the West, but I believe if it caught on here, it would be a drink consumed for both its healthful properties and its refreshing taste. If you find yourself in Eastern Europe or Northern China, seek it out—I promise you won’t be disappointed!