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Kedgeree

A dish of kedgeree from a London cafe in England

What: One of the handful of Anglo-Indian dishes still around, kedgeree is a curried rice dish with hard-boiled egg, parsley, butter, and flaky white fish, popularly smoked haddock. It is widely accepted that kedgeree originated in India—possibly as the rice-and-lentil dish khichdi, a mild comfort food that travelers are encouraged to eat if they fall ill—and was brought back to the U.K. by British colonists, who enjoyed it for breakfast in Victorian times. It’s not that easy to find in London today, but is always a pleasure when it turns up.

Where: Part restaurant, part bakery, part regional-foods shop—and attached to a hotel boasting a sweet rooftop bar—Shoreditch’s Albion Cafe (2-4 Boundary St., map) has a lot going for it. Including really good, really British food.

When: Daily, 8am-11pm

Order: The kedgeree (£10.75) is lovely here, a generous portion of curried rice (made with turmeric, curry powder, and cream), three quarters of a boiled egg, and small chunks of smoked, milk-poached haddock. It’s light and mild, with a nice smoky flavor; our taste buds liked it even better with a few dashes of hot sauce.

Alternatively: We hear the kedgeree is very good at The Wolseley (160 Piccadilly, map)—always a nice posh setting for breakfast or lunch—where it’s served with a runny poached egg. Historic Simpson’s-in-the-Strand (100 Strand, map) offers it with smoked haddock on its weekdays-only breakfast menu, while on weekends only, Penk’s (79 Salusbury Rd., Queens Park, map) in north London does a spiced kedgeree with bacon, sultanas, and yogurt in addition to the usual suspects.


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