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What: This particular oh-so-Oaxacan empanada—those oval tortillas heated over a comal, then folded over your stuffing of choice (see also: empanada con flor de calabaza y quesillo)—was our favorite: shredded chicken in savory mole amarillo sauce. You will look for excuses to eat this over and over again.
Where: We had this empanada con mole amarillo at Fonda Florecita in Mercado de la Merced (Insurgentes betw. Murguía and Morelos, map), where cilantro joins the chicken and mole for a fresh-tasting punch. Once we punctured its perfect seal, this empanada literally burst with piping-hot flavor. The mole was rich and delicious, with a subtle spicy finish.
When: Daily, 7:30am-5:30pm
Alternatively: These empanadas are all over Oaxaca, but are largely spied in markets and on the street. The vendors in Mercado Abastos (betw. Calle Mercaderes and the periférico, map) sell some beauties on a row of comals along what we believe was the market’s far wall (when you come from the direction of el Centro, so we mean closer to Mercaderes). To be sure, since Abastos is muy labyrinthine, ask another vendor where the comedores are located once you get inside.
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