Chicken in soy sauce
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These triangular pockets of corn stuffed with various ingredients were among the best things we put in our mouths in Oaxaca. Do not miss trying tetelas in this state!
Where: We only saw tetelas offered at one place: Itanoní (Belisario Domínguez 513, Colonia Reforma, map), a casual and breezy antojería (specializing in corn-based antojitos, or snacks) and tortillería (you can watch the tortilla-making process in the open-air area in the front of the restaurant), where masa is made fresh daily. Its menu comes with a philosophy: that native, heirloom corn, maiz criollo—domesticated by Mexicans some 9,000 years ago—is essential to Mexican culture, and its cultivation should be celebrated.
When: Mon-Sat, 7am-4pm; Sun, 8am-2pm
Order: We loved the fresh-tasting tetela de hongos (44p)—every bite burst with mushrooms, queso fresco, and cream—but other fillings on offer include beans, chicharrón, and cheese with salsa, among others. Being corn-obsessed, this is also a great place to try memelitas and tostadas; on weekends the pozole here is fantastic. Wash it down with an agua fresca like the minty limón con hierbabuena.
Good to know: Itanoní is a short cab ride (or long walk) from downtown Oaxaca, and well worth the few pesos to get there.
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