What: The technique of marinating seafood in citrus most likely hails from Peru, but it was successfully adopted, like many other Latin American countries, by Colombia, particularly here on the coast.

Where: The small and casual La Cevicheria (57-5-664-5255/57-5-660-1492; Calle Stuart No. 7-14) is the Anthony Bourdain-approved place to try fresh local seafood prepared as ceviche, though it’s on the pricey side (the most basic items are around 15,000 COP).

When: Lunch and dinner

Order: The chilled citrus shrimp ceviche (pictured; 16,000 COP), with calamari, snail, and octopus, is pleasantly tangy, though the place is known for its more inventive dishes—those ceviches incorporating oddball ingredients like barbecue sauce, mozzarella cheese, or coconut cream (some of which are served hot). Wash everything down with a basil mojito or refreshing michelada (beer and lime juice over ice, with salt).

Alternatively: The tiny, newer El Pulpito (Calle del Cuartel No. 36-25) offers simple, fresh ceviche in Styrofoam cups at more budget-friendly prices.