Ghugni, pea curry street food
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What: Kulle is fruit chaat, alleged to have been invented in Delhi and a brilliant interpretation of the genre, in our opinion, especially on a hot summer’s day. What’s better than fresh fruit and vegetables—skins peeled, of course—hollowed out and topped with salty tangy spices, chickpeas, and jewel-bright pomegranate seeds? Just about nothing. Finally, an Indian street chaat that’s completely guilt-free.
Where: As usual, Old Delhi is where it’s at. More specifically, the decades-old Hira Lal Chaat (3636, Chawri Bazaar, map), a small, open-sided, Hindi-signed stall that’d be easy to miss, if it weren’t for the huge aloo-covered tawa, pile of simmering pav bhaji, and stack of fresh fruit.
When: Daily, noon-9pm
Order: An order of kulle (40 rupees), which for us meant a plate of tomato, cucumber, banana, and mango—all of them peeled, save for the tomato, which we reluctantly passed on eating (we also requested the guys not to run the peeled fruit under water before spicing them up, just in case). The fruits and veg were topped with lime juice, boiled channa (chickpeas), crunchy anardana (pomegranate seeds), and lots of chaat masala, lending it a salty, sour spice. Banana, with its soft texture and mild sweetness, and perfectly ripe, in-season mango were our two favorites; at other times, you might see potato or apple on offer. Don’t miss the aloo chaat here, either.
Alternatively: Kulle is not seen too much outside of Old Delhi. Just across the street from Hira Lal, Jugal Kishore Ramji Lal (13, Dujana House, Chawri Bazaar, map) is also known for fruit chaat, as is Sultan Kullewala (1716, Roshan Pura, Nai Sarak), around the corner. Off Chandni Chowk, you might try to find the tucked-away Bishan Swaroop (1421, Chandni Chowk, map).
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