India’s high-profile capital city, New Delhi, is every bit as complicated as the country itself, a dynamic crush of humanity at turns glittery and cosmopolitan as well as dysfunctional and destitute. It’s where perpetually traffic-clogged, tree-lined highways, the sides of which see a virtual stream of homeless migrants, lead to affluent gated communities and overcrowded Islamic enclaves, high-end shopping malls and magnificent centuries-old tombs, forts, mosques, and ruins that speak loudly of another era—certainly one no less complex than now.
For Delhi, having lived through a roller coaster of dynasties and empires, is said to have been the site of eight cities, from the 11th-century Lal Kot (now the beautiful Qutb Minar complex) through the Mughals’ 17th-century walled city Shahjahanabad (now labyrinthine Old Delhi) to the British-built New Delhi of today. It’s never been a simple, or easy, place to be—not for the diverse population of 22 million (give or take) living under its smog-dulled sky, nor for travelers passing through.
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But “Dilli,” in the fond words of one former resident we know, is “a grower not a show-er.” And nowhere is that truer than in the culinary realm, for melting-pot Delhi seems to lack its own cuisine on the surface. Look closer, though, and you find myriad examples of “typical Delhi foods”: the Mughlai- and Punjabi-derived dishes (the bold spices, creamy curries, and hearty breads that dominate northern India), the tangy-spicy street chaat, the Muslims’ kebabs, the Hindus’ vegetarian specialties. Like fellow capitals Mexico City and Bangkok, Delhi is a food culture to its core: Good eats are everywhere—on street corners, in temples, on trains, in restaurants of countless cuisines—and when people aren’t eating, they’re drinking (tea, usually). Also like those culinary giants, it helps to ease into Delhi food, which can be intimidating and highly regrettable if you eat the wrong thing in the wrong place. Well, we’ve done the delicious dirty work for you. It’s time to dive into the delicious local foods of Delhi.
For a fast and furious tour of North India, watch our one-minute video!
Note: The general rules of eating in countries like India include: Never drink the tap water, including ice. Choose established venues, or eat where lots of locals are eating. Avoid raw, unpeeled fruits and vegetables. Always wash hands before eating. Check that vaccinations are up-to-date before traveling. While EYW has chosen established venues and has safely eaten at every one of those featured in our “Where” sections, we cannot be held responsible for any health issues arising from our suggestions. Please see our Terms & Conditions.