Chicken in soy sauce
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What: Gorditas—golden, chewy stuffed-masa antojitos—are most traditional in the east-central parts of Mexico, but you’ll find them all over the country, including on the streets of D.F. They’re filled with foods like chicharrón, refried beans, cheese, shredded meats, carnitas, mushrooms, nopales, potatoes, combinations of these, and much more. That said, they’re prepared in different ways depending on where you are in the country—or, in the case of Mexico City, where the gordita vendor hails from. These might be grilled or fried, and sometimes a filling (like chicharrón) is mixed into the masa before it’s cooked. In any case, they make a small and satisfying street snack.
Where: Our crispy gordita is from just outside the Mercado San Juan de los Arcos de Belén at a corner stand called El Famoso (corner Calles Lopez and Arcos de Belén, el Centro, approx map), where the treats were fried and, yes, a bit greasy, but very tasty nonetheless. Tlacoyos and quesadillas were also on offer.
When: Daily, 8am-6:30pm
Order: Una gordita con chicharrón (7.50p) is what we enjoyed; other fillings on hand included potatoes, cheese, and beans. Pry the gordita’s pocket open a tad to squeeze in some lime, salsa, cilantro, and onion, and you’re good to go. Wash it down here with a tepache, an ancient beverage of fermented pineapple juice.
Alternatively: A few doors down, Carnitas El Kioskito (corner of Calles Lopez and Delicias, map), home of delicious carnitas, also sells gorditas. Look for them at other markets, taco stands, and restaurants—including the beloved El Bajío (multiple locations including Av. Cuitlahuac 2709, Col. Azcapotzalco, map).
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